School of Natural Skincare

Introduction

Welcome

Part 1: Who are your customers?

Worksheet: Must-have product design process

Part 2: What solutions and benefits do customers want your product to provide?

Formulating for dry skin

Q&A : Oleic acid for dry skin

Formulating for oily and acne prone skin

Formulating for mature and aging skin

Formulating for sensitive skin

Part 3: What features are required to deliver those benefits/solutions?

Glossary

Part 4: Choosing ingredients

Part 5: Product description

Part 6: Introduction to creating a formula

Worksheet: Product formulation

Download: Formulate a facial oil challenge textbook

Welcome to Module 3

Module resources and layout

Learning outcomes of Module 3

Download: Module 3 workbook

3.1 Cosmetics: definitions, categories and regulations

3.2 Types of cosmetic formula

3.3 What is a formula?

Download: Formulation worksheet

3.3.1 Percentages in more detail

3.3.2 Turning a recipe into a formula

Activity: Turn a recipe into a formula

3.4 Using a product development brief

Download : Product development brief worksheet

3.5 Using a benchmark

Download: Benchmark product analysis worksheet

Activity: Complete a benchmark analysis

​3.6 Sensory product evaluation

Download: Sensory product evaluation worksheet

Activity: Complete a sensory product evaluation

Download: Formulation comparison worksheet

3.7 Cosmetic product testing

Download: Module 3 textbook

Module 3 quiz

Checking in

Welcome to Module 4

Module resources and layout

Learning outcomes of Module 4

Download: Module 4 workbook

4.1 The function and structure of the skin

4.2 The skin barrier

4.3 Moisturizing the skin: water, humectants, emollients and occlusives

4.4 The acid mantle

​4.5 Skin aging

4.6 Formulating for different skin types and concerns

4.6.1 Formulating for mature and aging skin

Learn to formulate for menopausal skin in the Club

4.6.2 Formulating for oily/acne-prone skin

4.6.3 Formulating for dry skin

4.6.4 Formulating for sensitive skin

4.6.5 Formulating for normal skin

4.6.6 Skin conditions and concerns

Activity: Formulating for your skin type and concerns

Optional: Further reading on skin conditions/concerns

4.7 Formulating for the eye contour and lips

4.8 Skincare routine

Activity: Creating a skincare routine

Download: Module 4 textbook

Module 4 quiz

Welcome to Module 5

Module resources and layout

Learning outcomes of Module 5

Download: Module 5 workbook

5.1 Classification of ingredients/raw materials

5.2 Compatibility of ingredients/raw materials

5.3 Ingredients and functions: an overview

5.4 Researching ingredients/raw materials

Activity: Download an MSDS and CoA

5.4.1 Choosing a raw material supplier

5.5 Lipids

5.5.1 Composition of lipids

5.5.2 Carrier oils

Activity: Choosing carrier oils for yourself

5.5.3 Esters

5.5.4 Butters

5.5.5 Waxes (plus testing five natural waxes: experiment and report)

5.5.6 How to select lipids for your formulations

5.5.7 Getting to know your lipids

Download: Getting to know your lipids worksheet

Activity: Getting to know your lipids

5.6 Humectants

5.7 Clays, Powders, Salt and Exfoliants

5.8 Active ingredients

5.8.1 Antioxidants

5.8.2 Vitamins

5.8.3 Botanical Extracts

Learn to make your own botanical extracts in the Club

5.9 Essential Oils, hydrosols and fragrances

5.9.1 Essential Oils: Quick reference chart

5.9.2 Essential oil profiles

5.9.3 Getting to know your essential oils

Download: Getting to know your essential oils worksheet

Activity: Getting to know your essential oils

5.9.4 How to choose and blend essential oils

Download: Choosing and blending essential oils worksheets

5.9.5 International Fragrance (IFRA) guidelines and calculating allergen levels

Download: IFRA standards (51st amendment)

Download: Example IFRA conformity certificate and Allergen declaration

5.10 Functional Ingredients

5.10.1 Natural emulsifiers for creams and lotions

5.10.2 Emulsifiers for self-emulsifying oils and oleogels

5.10.3 Thickeners

5.10.4 Solubilizers

5.10.5 pH Adjusters

5.11 Natural colorants

5.12 Organizing and storing materials In your lab

Download: Incoming ingredient (raw material) log

Activity: Start keeping an Incoming ingredient (raw material) log

5.13 Substituting ingredients

5.14 Supplier list

Download: Module 5 textbook

Module 5 quiz

Checking in

Welcome to Module 6

Module resources and layout

Learning outcomes of Module 6

Download: Module 6 workbook

6.1 Equipment for your home lab

6.2 Professional lab equipment

Activity: Set up your home lab

6.3 Scaling up and manufacturing equipment

6.4 Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP)

Download: Calibration records and manufacturing log worksheets

6.5 Lab techniques and skills

Demonstration: Setting up a double boiler

Demonstration: Sanitizing equipment

6.6 Testing pH

Demonstration: How to take care of and calibrate your pH meter

Activity: Practice calibrating your pH meter

6.7 Adjusting pH

Demonstration: How to measure and adjust the pH of your product

6.8 Calculating batch sizes

Download: Batch calculation worksheet

Download: Batch calculators

Activity: Calculating a batch​

6.9 Cosmetic packaging

Activity: Research packaging options

Download: Module 6 textbook

Module 6 quiz

Welcome to Module 7

Module resources and layout

Learning outcomes of Module 7

Download: Module 7 workbook

7.1 Introduction to microbiology

7.2 Strategies for prolonging shelf-life

7.3 Natural preservatives

7.3.1 Preservative ingredients

7.4 Creating a preservative system

Download: Module 7 textbook

Module 7 quiz

Learn how to formulate self-preserving products in the Club

Checking in

Welcome to Module 8

Module resources and layout

Learning outcomes of Module 8

Download: Module 8 workbook

8.1 Introduction to formulating oils, oil-based serums and self-emulsifying oils

8.2 Formulating body and massage oils

Download: Product development brief - Body and massage oils

8.2.1 Formulation example: Moringa Dry Oil Body Spritz

8.2.2 Formulation example: Wild Rose and Geranium Dry Oil Body Spritz

8.2.3 Formulation example: Coconut and Lime Body Oil

8.2.4 Formulation example: Soothing and Relaxing Massage and Bath Oil

8.2.5 Formulation example: Balancing and Uplifting Massage and Bath Oil

Activity: Formulate a body or massage oil

8.3 Formulating facial oils and serums

Download: Product development brief - Facial oils and oil-based serums

8.3.1 Formulation example: Facial Oil for Dry Skin

8.3.2 Formulation example: Facial Oil for Oily Skin

8.3.3 Formulation example: Soothing Facial Serum For Sensitive Skin

8.3.4 Formulation example: Antioxidant Facial Serum with Coenzyme Q10

Demonstration: 8.3.4 Antioxidant Facial Serum with Coenzyme Q10

Activity: Formulate a facial oil or oil-based serum

8.4 Formulating bath and shower oils

Download: Product development brief - Bath and shower oils

8.4.1 Formulation example: Lime and Sweet Orange Shower Oil with Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate

8.4.2 Formulation example: Lavender and Bergamot Bath Oil with Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

8.4.3 Formulation example: Sweet Orange Shower and Bath Oil with Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Activity: Formulate a bath or shower oil

8.5 Formulating cleansing oils, oil-to-milk cleansers and cleansing gels

Download: Product development brief - Cleansing oils, oil-to-milk cleansers and cleansing gels

8.5.1 Formulation example: Cleansing Oil for Sensitive Skin

8.5.2 Formulation example: Grapefruit Cleansing Oil with Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Demonstration: Grapefruit Cleansing Oil with Polyglycerol-4 Oleate

8.5.3 Formulation example: Pomegranate Cleansing Gel with Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

8.5.4 Formulation example: Geranium Cleansing Gel with Sucrose Stearate

8.5.5 Formulation example: Fragrance-free Cleansing Gel with Sucragel AP V2

Demonstration: Fragrance-free cleansing gel with Sucragel AP V2

8.5.6 Reverse formulation example: Neal’s Yard Frankincense Intense Cleansing Melt

8.5.7 Formulation example: Ylang Ylang and Sweet Almond Cleansing Balm with Sapogel Q

Activity: Formulate a cleansing oil, oil-to-milk cleansers or cleansing gel

8.6 Troubleshooting oils, oil-based serums and self-emulsifying oils

Download: Module 8 textbook

Module 8 quiz

Welcome to Module 9

Module resources and layout

Learning outcomes of Module 9

Download: Module 9 workbook

9.1 Introduction to formulating anhydrous butters and balms

Activity: Getting to know your butters

9.2 Formulating anhydrous body butters

Download: Product development brief - Anhydrous body butters

9.2.1 Formulation example: Ylang Ylang and Frankincense Bedtime Body Butter

Demonstration: 9.2.1 Ylang Ylang and Frankincense Bedtime Body Butter

9.2.2 Formulation example: Whipped Shea Body Butter with Babassu Oil and Illipe Butter

9.2.3 Formulation example: Sweet Orange and Kokum Whipped Body Butter

9.2.4 Formulation example: Mango and Coconut Whipped Body Butter

Activity: Formulate an anhydrous body butter

9.3 Formulating balms and salves

Download: Product development brief - Balms and salves

Activity: Complete a benchmark analysis for a balm

9.3.1 Experiment and report: Do anhydrous cleansing balms need preservatives?

9.3.2 Formulation examples: Simple Lip Balm (Four Variations)

9.3.3 Formulation example: Vegan Calendula Salve

9.3.4 Formulation example: Moisturizing Sea Buckthorn Balm

9.3.5 Formulation example: Wild Rose Beauty Balm

9.3.6 Formulation example: Illipe and Murumuru Lip Balm

Demonstration: Illipe and Murumuru Lip Balm

9.3.7 Formulation example: Ultra Protective Lip Balm with Lanolin

9.3.8 Formulation example: Lavender and Sweet Orange Massage Gel with Dermofeel Viscolid

9.3.9 Formulation example: Sweet Almond Moisturising Gel-Balm with Sapogel Q

Demonstration: 9.3.9 Sweet Almond Moisturizing Gel-balm with Sapogel Q

9.3.10 Formulation example: Frankincense Cleansing Balm

9.3.11 Formulation example: Mango and Murumuru Cleansing Butter

9.3.12 Formulation example: Coconut, Illipe and Green Tea Cleansing Balm with Durosoft PG4-O

9.3.13 Formulation example: Chamomile Cleansing Balm with Dermofeel PP

Activity: Formulate a leave-on or rinse-off balm

9.4 Troubleshooting butters and balms

Download: Module 9 textbook

Module 9 quiz

Checking in

Welcome to Module 10

Module resources and layout

Learning outcomes of Module 10

Download: Module 10 workbook

10.1 Formulating spa-style soaks

Download: Product development brief - Spa-style soaks

10.1.1 Formulation example: Relaxing Rose and Milk Bath Soak

10.1.2 Formulation example: Invigorating Peppermint Foot Soak

10.1.3 Formulation example: Sea Salt and Goat’s Milk Bath Soak

10.1.4 Formulation example: Coconut Milk Bath Soak

Demonstration: Coconut milk bath soak

Activity: Formulate a bath, foot or hand soak

10.2 Formulating exfoliating scrubs and polishes

Download: Product development brief - Scrubs and polishes

Activity: Getting to know exfoliants

10.2.1 Experiment and report: Testing preservatives in an anhydrous Sucragel-based body scrub

10.2.2 Formulation example: Grapefruit and Geranium Body Scrub

10.2.3 Formulation example: Mango, Coconut and Sugar Lip Scrub

10.2.4 Formulation example: Grapefruit, Orange and Calendula Facial Scrub with Sucrose Stearate

Demonstration: Grapefruit, Orange and Calendula Facial Scrub with Sucrose Stearate

10.2.5 Formulation example: Peach and Poppy Seed Body Scrub with Sucrose Stearate

10.2.6 Formulation Example: Lemongrass and Bamboo Facial Scrub with Sucragel CF

Demonstration: Lemongrass and Bamboo Facial Scrub with Sucragel CF

10.2.7 Formulation example: Vanilla and Shea Sugar Scrub with Sucragel AOF Bio

10.2.8 Formulation example: Lemon and Orange Lip Scrub with Sapogel Q

10.2.9 Formulation example: Murumuru Sugar Scrub with Dermofeel PP

Activity: Formulate a body or facial scrub

Activity: Complete a sensory product evaluation for your body or facial scrub

10.3 Troubleshooting spa-style soaks, scrubs and polishes

10.3.1 Troubleshooting example: Lemongrass and Bamboo Facial Scrub with Sucragel CF

10.3.2 Troubleshooting example: Lemon and Sugar Lip Scrub with Sapogel Q

Download: Module 10 textbook

Module 10 quiz

Welcome to Module 11

Module resources and layout

Learning outcomes of Module 11

Download: Module 11 workbook

11.1 Introduction to formulating toners, spritzers, mists and gels

11.1.1 Experiment and report: Three natural solubilizers

11.1.2 Experiment and report: How hydrosols can challenge the performance of the preservation system

11.2 Formulating toners, spritzers and mists

Download: Product development brief - Toners, spritzers and mists

11.2.1 Formulation example: Hydrating Rose, Aloe and Cucumber Facial Mist

11.2.2 Formulation example: Juniper Berry and Lemon Toner

Demonstration: Juniper Berry and Lemon Toner

11.2.3 Formulation example: Green Tea Toner with Alcohol for Oily Skin

Learn to formulate hydrating micellar cleansing water in the Club

11.2.4 Formulation example: Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Toner

Activity: Formulate a toner, spritzer or mist

11.3 Formulating gels

Download: Product development brief - Gels

Activity: Getting to know gums

11.3.1 Formulation example: Cooling Aloe After-sun Gel

11.3.2 Formulation example: Moisturizing Hyaluronic Acid Facial Gel

Demonstration: Moisturizing Hyaluronic Acid Facial Gel

11.3.3 Formulation example: Brightening Gel with Licorice and Niacinamide for Hyperpigmentation

11.3.4 Reverse formulation example: Deep Moisture Oil-free Gel

Activity: Formulate a gel

11.4 Troubleshooting toners, spritzers, mists and gels

11.5 Laboratory test reports: Toners, spritzers, mists and gels

Download: Module 11 textbook

Module 11 quiz

Checking in

Welcome to Module 12

Module resources and layout

Learning outcomes of Module 12

Download: Module 12 workbook

12.1 What is an emulsion?

12.2 Surfactants and the science of emulsification

12.2.1 Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance (HLB)

12.3 How to make an emulsion: Phases and stages in emulsion manufacture

12.3.1 Variations in emulsion manufacturing method

12.4 How to choose your emulsifier

Activity: Research an emulsifier

12.5 Rheology, viscosity modification and emulsion stability

12.6 Solving emulsion instability

Download: Module 12 textbook

Module 12 quiz

Welcome to Module 13

Module resources and layout

Learning outcomes of Module 13

Download: Module 13 workbook

13.1 Introduction to formulating creams and lotions

Demonstration: Simple emulsion

13.1.1 Experiment and report: Testing four natural emulsifiers

Activity: Experiment with emulsifiers

13.2 Formulating creams and lotions for the face and body

Download: Product development brief - Creams and lotions

13.2.1 Formulating for different skin types: Lavender Facial Lotion for Normal/Oily/Dry Skin

Demonstration: Lavender Facial Lotion for Normal Skin

13.2.2 Formulation example: Oil-free Moisturizer

Demonstration: Oil-free Moisturizer

Learn to formulate an advanced Oil Control Moisturizer with Salicylic Acid in the Club

13.2.3 Formulation example: Facial Lotion with Licorice and Niacinamide for Hyperpigmentation

13.2.4 Formulation example: Geranium and Macadamia Body Lotion

Demonstration: Geranium and Macadamia Body Lotion

13.2.5 Formulation example: Coconut and Shea Body Butter

13.2.6 Formulation example: Frankincense Face Cream for Mature Skin with Coenzyme Q10

13.2.7 Formulation example: Floral Moisturizing Lotion

13.2.8 Formulation example: Sweet Summer Body Milk

13.2.9 Formulation example: Eye Cream with Caffeine and Ceramide Complex

Activity: Formulate a cream or lotion

Activity: Complete a sensory product evaluation for your cream or lotion

13.3 Formulating cleansing and exfoliating lotions

13.3.1 Formulation example: Soothing Cleansing Lotion

Learn to create a foaming cleansing lotion in the Club

13.3.2 Formulation example: Olive Exfoliating Lotion

Activity: Formulate an exfoliating lotion

13.4 Troubleshooting creams and lotions

13.5 Laboratory test reports: Creams and lotions

Download: Module 13 textbook

Module 13 quiz

Learn to formulate emulsion-based clay face masks in the Club

Checking in

Welcome to Module 14

Module resources and layout

Learning outcomes of Module 14

Download: Module 14 workbook

14.1 Selling your products legally: An introduction

Download: Manufacturing log (Batch file) template

14.2 Creating a Product Information File (PIF)

Completed example of a PIF

Download: Product Information File (PIF) template

Activity: Create a PIF for one of your products

14.3 Cosmetic regulations by country

14.3.1 Australia cosmetic regulations

14.3.2 Canada cosmetic regulations

14.3.3 European Union cosmetic regulations

14.3.4 India cosmetic regulations

14.3.5 New Zealand cosmetic regulations

14.3.6 South Africa cosmetic regulations

14.3.7 UK cosmetic regulations

Download: Guidance from UK Office for Product Safety & Standards

Providers of CPSRs and cosmetic testing

14.3.8 USA cosmetic regulations

14.4 Cosmetic claims

Download: Guidance on EU 'free-from' claims

Download: Module 14 textbook

Guidelines for submitting assignments

Assignment checklist

Assignment 1: Calculating a batch

Assignment 2: Varying a formula

Assignment 3: Anhydrous oil-based product formula

Assignment 4: Toner, mist or gel formula

Assignment 5: Cream or lotion formula

Submit assignments

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